ABG flywheel magneto
Bosch flywheel magneto
CAV 3U1 magneto
Joe Hunt magneto
Morel G1 magneto
Villiers flywheel magneto
Wico-Pacy Series 90 magneto
Wico-Pacy Series A magneto
Wipac Series 191 flywheel magneto
Universal EasyCap for Villiers Flywheel Magneto
In many types of Villiers flywheel magneto, the contact breaker is
located in the front half of a housing 1 (Pic. A).
The moving point 2 and the housing 1 are earthed, and the static point 3
The static point 3 is adjustable and held by an earthed clamping screw 4
which is isolated from the live static point plate 5 by an insulating washer
A cable 7 leading from the LT coil is connected to a terminal post 8 on
the static point plate 5, as too is a cable 9 which leads to the condenser 10 located in the rear of the housing 1 (Pic.
contact breaker assembly is mounted on the magneto back-plate (by a
pair of studs 11) as too are the coils and their pole pieces. The
back-plate is attached to the engine crankcase, and the whole affair
is then covered by the flywheel, with its magnets embedded in its rim,
mounted on the engine crankshaft.
The disc of the flywheel usually has apertures to permit
access to the contact breaker assembly for cleaning and adjustment.
However, in the event that the condenser needs
replacement, in the past it has been necessary to: (1) remove the flywheel
from the crankshaft to gain access to the back-plate; (2) remove the
back-plate from the crankcase to gain access to the nuts on the studs 11;
(3) undo those nuts to remove the contact breaker assembly to gain access to
the condenser 10; (4) replace the condenser 10; (5) reassemble everything;
and (6) re-time the flywheel and the contact breaker.
All quite a chore.
with the Brightspark Universal EasyCap (and a bit of care/luck), it is
possible to fit the new condenser and disconnect the old one without
removing the back-plate or flywheel.
In essence the cable 9 for the old condenser 10 is cut, and the
insulating washer 6 under the head of the clamp screw 4 is replaced by the
EasyCap 12 (Pic C) after it has been shaped and drilled.
position the flywheel so that you have access through one of its apertures
to the contact breaker assembly.
Remove the cover from the assembly, if present.
Then remove the clamping screw 4 and its washers. Be careful
not to drop them inside the flywheel, otherwise you will probably need to
remove it to recover them.
In the example shown in Pic D, there are two possible holes
for the clamping screw 4, and it was the left one 14 that was used to
achieve full adjustability of the points gap using the eccentric peg 15.
Other variants of the housing and contact set may differ.
make a mock-up of the shape you require, using some thick card or other
Click here to download an
initial template in
Adobe Acrobat .pdf format. When printing it out, make sure that you use the
print dialogue box and that the page scaling is set to "no scaling" or
"100%" so that it comes out the correct size.
Fit the mock-up to the contact breaker assembly using the clamping screw
4 and its metal washer, but not the old insulating washer 6. Play around
with the shape if necessary until it fits nicely and the full range of
adjustment is available without anything fouling your mock-up board.
Again, be careful not to drop the mock-up inside the flywheel, otherwise
you will probably need to remove the flywheel to recover it.
Now transfer the shape of your mock-up to the Universal
EasyCap, and cut, grind and/or sand the circuit board to shape, and drill
the hole. Check that the EasyCap fits and allows the required range of
adjustment of the static point plate 5. Again, be careful not to drop
anything inside the flywheel.
In this example, the bottom layer 16 of the circuit board is in contact with
the static point plate 5, which is live; and the top layer of the circuit
board is in contact with the clamping screw 4, which is earthed.
It is essential that the bottom layer 16 does not
inadvertently touch any earthed part of the assembly. You should therefore
chamfer the bottom of the circuit board along the edge marked 17 in Pic E so
that the bottom layer 16 cannot touch the housing 1.
should also countersink the hole 18 on the underside of the circuit board,
so that the edge of the bottom layer 16 around the hole cannot touch the
clamping screw 4.
The old condenser needs to be disconnected. In the example shown, the
condenser cable 9 and the LT coil cable 7 share a common terminal tag. Using
some fine side cutters, you can snip through the condenser cable 9 near the
tag. Make sure that you snip the correct cable, and also make sure that the
snipped ends cannot touch anything.
Adjust the points.
Replace the contact breaker cover if there is one.
Replace the flywheel cover if there is one.